Backpacking through Iraq, specifically in the autonomous region of Iraqi Kurdistan, was a journey I had long dreamed of. This area, known as the cradle of civilization, boasts a rich history and vibrant culture that distinguish it from the rest of Iraq. Its unique blend of Kurdish heritage and relative stability in a region often marked by conflict makes it a symbol of resilience and determination amidst Iraq’s broader challenges. What captivated me most was the renowned hospitality of the Kurdish people. Whether inspired by an Anthony Bourdain quote, a travel blog, a YouTube video, or a conversation with another traveler, I felt a profound urge to experience their warmth and generosity firsthand.
Despite the complex history and numerous warnings, my desire to visit Iraqi Kurdistan and immerse myself in its culture remained fixed. With an open heart and a spirit eager for genuine experiences, I embarked on this adventure. Over ten unforgettable days, I lived with two different families through Couchsurfing, each providing unique insights into the heart and soul of this remarkable region. These encounters deepened my understanding and appreciation of the Kurdish people’s resilience and hospitality, making my journey through Iraqi Kurdistan something that will always leave an impact on my heart.
My journey began in Erbil, where I connected with Znar, a 28-year-old salesman promoting a local food delivery company called Talabat. His warm welcome and genuine smile perfectly embodied the hospitality I had always heard about. Staying in his flat, which he shared with a roommate in a tall building offering a stunning view of the city, gave me my first authentic glimpse into Kurdish life.
Erbil effortlessly marries the old with the new. The ancient Citadel, standing proudly at the city’s center, offers a window into the region’s storied past, while the vibrant markets and contemporary cafes reflect its dynamic present. Arriving in the city early, I had some time to explore before meeting Znar after work. I wandered through the historic Citadel and the bustling Qaysari Bazaar, where I enjoyed some of the best pomegranates and dates I’ve ever tasted—juicy, sweet, and remarkably affordable.
Navigating the maze of the Qaysari Bazaar, I was enveloped by the rich scents of spices, grilled meats, and fresh produce. The vibrant hustle and bustle, with vendors energetically calling out their wares and colorful displays of fruits, spices, and handmade goods, painted a vivid picture of daily life in Erbil.
That evening, Znar introduced me to his favorite local restaurant, Fuul W Hummus. The meal was an unforgettable feast—a generous spread of rice, chicken, hummus, vegetables, and other classic Middle Eastern dishes. It was one of the best meals I’ve had during my travels. Over this hearty dinner, we shared stories about Znar’s life, his aspirations, and the challenges he faced. Our conversation flowed easily as we laughed and bonded, revealing our commonalities—both of us around the same age, passionate about our work, staying active, enjoying good food, and making new connections.
The next day, we embarked on a three-hour drive to attend a music festival at Dukan Lake. The drive was scenic, with rolling hills and vast landscapes that showcased the natural beauty of Kurdistan. It turned out to be one of the most memorable experiences of my trip. We camped in the middle of nowhere, surrounded by the sounds of music, the glow of strobe lights, and the infectious energy of people enjoying life. It was an evening of incredible vibes, good tunes, and camaraderie that felt no different from festivals back home. It was a stark reminder that joy and celebration are universal, transcending borders and stereotypes.
Znar’s unwavering ambition and infectious positivity made him more than just a Couchsurfing host; he became a true friend. We developed a running joke that “the enemy is always watching,” which to us meant always staying vigilant, working hard, and never losing sight of our dreams. His big goals and relentless drive were incredibly motivating. It’s interesting how something so unfamiliar, like the land of Iraq, can inspire you in ways you never expected. This experience was a powerful reminder to never judge a book by its cover. In many ways, I felt as if I was back in Austin, surrounded by good vibes, music, parties, friendships, and laughter.
This kind of connection is what makes travel so profoundly impactful for me. It reinforces the idea that, beyond borders and cultural differences, we share fundamental similarities. Znar’s positive attitude and his drive to create something special in his life exemplified the resilience and warmth that I would come to associate with the Kurdish people and the spirit of Iraq.
Leaving behind the urban vibrancy of Erbil, my journey took me north to the tranquil village of Shiladze. Here, I was welcomed into the home of Kayas, a humble and dedicated English teacher living with his parents and eight siblings.
Nestled among rolling hills and lush greenery, Shiladze felt like a peaceful retreat from the city’s hustle and bustle, offering a deeper connection to the land and its people. Upon my arrival, I was embraced by an overwhelming sense of welcome. Kayas and his family’s hospitality was immediate and heartfelt. They not only provided me with food and shelter but also opened their hearts and lives to me. Shared meals became a cherished ritual, where we gathered on the floor to enjoy simple yet delicious homemade dishes. One of the most memorable experiences was helping Kayas’s mother make traditional Iraqi naan, an act that felt both humbling and profoundly connecting.
Exploring Shiladze and its surroundings, I was struck by the natural beauty and the simplicity of life. Children played freely in the fields, and villagers went about their daily routines with a palpable sense of contentment and community. Despite their modest means, there was a richness in their lives that was enlightening.
As an American, I had been repeatedly warned about the dangers of traveling to Iraq. Yet, my time in Shiladze shattered those preconceived notions. The stark contrast between the warnings I received and the reality of my experience underscored the transformative power of human connection and the universality of kindness. Kayas and his family treated me with a generosity that transcended cultural and national boundaries, embodying the true spirit of hospitality.
One evening over dinner, the harsh realities faced by the Kurdish people came into sharp focus. Kayas shared that just months earlier, he had plans to embark on a perilous journey to secure a better future for his family, who survive on just a couple hundred dollars a month. His route would take him from Iraq to Turkey, then through Bulgaria, Romania, Germany, and finally to England. This dangerous path was his only option, given Iraq’s restrictive passport, ranked among the worst in the world. Moreover, the Kurdish people face constant threats from Iranian and Turkish forces. Kayas’s own uncle had been tragically killed in an airstrike, a stark reminder of the ever-present danger that looms over their daily lives.
This kind of connection is what makes travel so profoundly impactful. It’s a powerful reminder that, despite our differences, we are all connected by our shared humanity. My time in Shiladze was a testament to the power of human connection and the profound impact it can have on our lives. It has inspired me to continue exploring the world with an open heart and mind, ready to embrace the beauty and lessons that each new experience brings. Witnessing the courage, positivity resilience of the Kurdish people reminded me that true strength lies in the heart’s ability to remain open and compassionate, even in the face of adversity.
As I reflect on my journey, I am filled with a renewed sense of hope and a deeper understanding of the incredible power of empathy and solidarity. These are the experiences that remind us that, despite the challenges and borders that separate us, we are all part of one global family, united by our shared humanity and our collective aspirations for a better world. As I reflect on my journey through Iraqi Kurdistan, the memories of shared meals, heartfelt conversations, and the undetered hospitality of the Kurdish people linger warmly in my mind. This adventure was more than just a trip; it was a profound lesson in resilience, kindness, and the enduring strength of the human spirit. From the ancient streets of Erbil to the serene village of Shiladze, every moment was an understanding to the region’s unique blend of tradition and modernity. Despite the region’s challenges, the Kurdish people’s relentless optimism and generosity left an indelible mark on my heart. This experience has reshaped my understanding of Iraq, painting it not as a land of conflict, but as a place of hope and humanity.
As we continue to explore the world, how can we carry forward the lessons of resilience and hospitality that the Kurdish people embody, and use them to bridge the gaps between our own diverse cultures?
