Africa
A Week at a Surf Camp in Senegal, Despite Being Terrible at Surfing
By the time I reached Dakar, I had spent about two weeks traveling overland from Morocco through Mauritania and into Senegal. I…
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Africa
Tagine Is a Pot Before It Is a Recipe
Ask what a tagine is in Morocco and the answer can point to dinner or the clay pot cooking it. Usually, it…
Africa
Pay Attention Before You Decide What a Place Is
A place becomes smaller the moment I arrive certain about it. Certain that I know what the neighborhood will feel like. Certain…
Travel Inspiration
Twenty Hours on an Iron-Ore Train in Mauritania
The ski goggles were the first clue that this wasn’t going to be a comfortable train ride. My host in Nouakchott helped…
Africa
The Water That Wasn’t There
The bus from Agadir to Dakhla took twenty-one hours. I sat near the front, watching the landscape through the windshield and talking…
Africa
Getting Lost in Fes
Fes does not unfold politely. It arrives as alleys, voices, scooters, donkeys, cedar, leather, bread and the persistent suspicion that you have…
Africa
I Used to Think Freedom Meant Leaving
For a long time, I confused freedom with distance. The farther I could get from home, the freer I felt. A one-way…
Africa
A Few Blue Days in Chefchaouen
Chefchaouen was the sort of place that made it difficult to walk in a straight line. I would turn down one blue…
Travel Inspiration
I Found My Career by Leaving Home
When I finished studying economics and business, I had no clear idea what I wanted to do for a living. I did…
Travel Tips
Ten Words Beat a Perfect Accent
I have traveled through 61 countries and have yet to become fluent during the ride from the airport. I have become very…