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Five Italian Dishes, Five Different Regions
Italian food makes more sense when you stop treating it as one cuisine. The cooking changes with the landscape: butter and rice…
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Karachi Is a City, Not a String of Superlatives
The old version of this article called Karachi vivacious, eclectic, mesmerizing, breathtaking, and unforgettable before it said anything useful. That kind of…
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Budgeting for India Without Inventing a Daily Number
Any article that gives one daily budget for India is already hiding the most important information. India is a country of continental…
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Five Dishes That Show India’s Range
No list of five dishes can explain Indian food. The country is too large, the regional traditions too distinct, and the differences…
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Varanasi Does Not Need to Be Explained Away
Varanasi is often described with the kind of language travel writing reaches for when the writer has run out of nerve: mystical,…
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The Taj Mahal Is Better Without the Sales Pitch
You do not need help understanding that the Taj Mahal is beautiful. The building has had centuries of practice, millions of photographs…
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How to Arrive at Machu Picchu With Some Context
Machu Picchu does not need help being dramatic. It sits at 2,430 meters in the Peruvian Andes, stone terraces folding into green…
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Rajasthan in Pink and Blue
Jaipur and Jodhpur are regularly reduced to colors. Jaipur is pink. Jodhpur is blue. The labels are useful on a map and…
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The Colosseum Beyond the Gladiators
The Colosseum is so familiar that arriving can feel like meeting somebody you have seen in photographs for years. The shape is…
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Wadi Rum Is More Than Mars on Earth
Wadi Rum is often introduced as “Mars on Earth,” partly because filmmakers have repeatedly used its red desert to stand in for…