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Ten Days in Laos Without Racing the Map
The old version of this itinerary attempted Vientiane, Vang Vieng, Luang Prabang, Nong Khiaw, Muang Ngoi and the Plain of Jars in…
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Vang Vieng at River Speed
An inner tube is a poor vehicle for ambition. This is part of its appeal. The Nam Song River moves through Vang…
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The Road Through Ha Giang
Everything about Ha Giang makes you want to look away from the road. This is a terrible instinct. The loop runs through…
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Five Ways Into Vietnamese Food
Vietnamese food is often introduced as a neat list: pho, banh mi, spring rolls, coffee, repeat. It is an efficient way to…
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Hoi An Is Not the Venice of Anywhere
Calling Hoi An the “Venice of Southeast Asia” does neither place a favor. Yes, there is water. There are also lanterns, boats…
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Vietnam’s Beaches Are Not One Trip
Vietnam has more than three thousand kilometers of coastline, which makes a list of its “best beaches” about as useful as a…
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Sapa Beyond the Viewpoints
Sapa is sold through one image: green rice terraces curving beneath misty mountains. The landscape is real. The timing is not guaranteed.…
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Two Weeks in Vietnam Without Pretending It Is Small
Vietnam looks narrow on a map, which has encouraged generations of travelers to mistake it for small. The old version of this…
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Five Days in Singapore Without Treating It Like a Layover
Singapore is often given forty-eight hours and a list of photogenic architecture. Five days allows a better question: how did a small…
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A Night Out in Singapore Should Not Depend on a Secret List
The old version of this post was a list of Singapore speakeasies, complete with addresses, passwords and breathless descriptions of unmarked doors.…