
The People Who Made Room for Me
I went to Pakistan for the mountains and to Jordan for Petra. I didn’t plan those trips around hospitality, though it became…
9 stories from this part of the world.
Existing posts are pulled automatically from the Country metadata added during migration.

I went to Pakistan for the mountains and to Jordan for Petra. I didn’t plan those trips around hospitality, though it became…

I crossed from Morocco into Mauritania and eventually into Senegal without taking a flight. The whole trip took about six weeks. On…

Ask what a tagine is in Morocco and the answer can point to dinner or the clay pot cooking it. Usually, it…

The bus from Agadir to Dakhla took twenty-one hours. I sat near the front, watching the landscape through the windshield and talking…

Fes does not unfold politely. It arrives as alleys, voices, scooters, donkeys, cedar, leather, bread and the persistent suspicion that you have…

For a long time, I confused freedom with distance. The farther I could get from home, the freer I felt. A one-way…

Chefchaouen was the sort of place that made it difficult to walk in a straight line. I would turn down one blue…

I reached Merzouga after a long drive south through Morocco. I spent a few days near the edge of the Sahara, walking…

A week into my fourth trip to Africa, I was sitting in Chefchaouen trying to work out why being back felt so…