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A Mauritius Road Trip Needs More Time Than the Map Suggests
Mauritius is compact enough to tempt you into circling the island in a day. You probably can. You will also spend that…
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Mauritian Food Makes More Sense at the Counter
Mauritian food is often introduced as a fusion of Indian, African, Chinese, French, and Creole influences. The description is not wrong, but…
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A Romantic Weekend in Mauritius Needs Less Itinerary
Romance usually survives a bad hotel view. It has a harder time with a seven-stop itinerary, three hours in traffic, and one…
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The Trouble With Going Somewhere to Help
I went to Malawi to volunteer. Years later, that sentence still bothers me a little. It makes it sound as if I…
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Malawi Earned Its Nickname
Some national nicknames feel as if they were written in a tourism office. Malawi’s follows you into the street. They call it…
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Malawi Beyond the Nickname
Malawi is narrow on a map and enormous once you start moving through it. The lake dominates the country, but it is…
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Kilimanjaro Is a Walk Until It Isn’t
Kilimanjaro looks simple on paper. There are no ropes, no vertical climbing and no technical moves on the standard routes. You walk…
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A Weekend in Zanzibar Means Choosing Your Zanzibar
Zanzibar can be a maze of coral-stone lanes, an afternoon shaped by the tide, a crowded food market, or several quiet hours…
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The Great Migration Does Not Take Reservations
A Tanzania safari is often sold through certainty. The lions will be waiting, the river crossing will happen on schedule, and the…
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A Serengeti Balloon Safari Cannot Promise the Serengeti
A hot-air balloon over the Serengeti begins before sunrise, which means the romance starts with an alarm clock. You leave camp in…