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Diving Mozambique Requires More Than Warm Water
Mozambique’s coastline is long enough to make the phrase “diving Mozambique” almost meaningless on its own. Ponta do Ouro in the south,…
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Swimming With Whale Sharks Is a Privilege, Not a Promise
A whale shark encounter is usually sold through one perfect image: clear blue water, a vast spotted animal, and one swimmer suspended…
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Ten Days in Mozambique: Pick a Coast and Leave Room
Ten days in Mozambique sounds generous until the map starts asking questions. The coastline runs for thousands of kilometers, roads can be…
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One Week in Mauritius Is Enough If You Stop Racing
Mauritius looks small on a map, which encourages a particular kind of itinerary: breakfast in the north, snorkeling in the east, a…
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A Mauritius Road Trip Needs More Time Than the Map Suggests
Mauritius is compact enough to tempt you into circling the island in a day. You probably can. You will also spend that…
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Mauritian Food Makes More Sense at the Counter
Mauritian food is often introduced as a fusion of Indian, African, Chinese, French, and Creole influences. The description is not wrong, but…
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A Romantic Weekend in Mauritius Needs Less Itinerary
Romance usually survives a bad hotel view. It has a harder time with a seven-stop itinerary, three hours in traffic, and one…
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The Trouble With Going Somewhere to Help
I went to Malawi to volunteer. Years later, that sentence still bothers me a little. It makes it sound as if I…
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Malawi Earned Its Nickname
Some national nicknames feel as if they were written in a tourism office. Malawi’s follows you into the street. They call it…
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Malawi Beyond the Nickname
Malawi is narrow on a map and enormous once you start moving through it. The lake dominates the country, but it is…