Explore
Ten Days in Iraqi Kurdistan, Beyond the Version I Knew
Before I went to Iraqi Kurdistan, most of what I knew about Iraq had arrived through headlines. Conflict, danger, instability. Those things…
Explore
My First Walk Through Warsaw
I came into Poland by train from Berlin. My family has roots here, and I still have relatives near Kraków, so crossing…
Become
I Took the Wrong Trail Above Kotor
A friend at my hostel told me about a way up to the fortress above Kotor. There was a main route and…
Explore
The Trip That Stopped Being Solo
I left Austin expecting to spend eleven months alone. Somewhere between an unfinished chess game in Spain and a rented car in…
Explore
The People Who Made Room for Me
I went to Pakistan for the mountains and to Jordan for Petra. I didn’t plan those trips around hospitality, though it became…
Explore
I Kept Trying to Pay. They Kept Refusing.
There is a particular loneliness to long solo trips that rarely makes it into the photographs. You can spend a day surrounded…
Explore
From Morocco to Senegal Without Getting on a Plane
I crossed from Morocco into Mauritania and eventually into Senegal without taking a flight. The whole trip took about six weeks. On…
Explore
A Week at a Surf Camp in Senegal, Despite Being Terrible at Surfing
By the time I reached Dakar, I had spent about two weeks traveling overland from Morocco through Mauritania and into Senegal. I…
Explore
Tagine Is a Pot Before It Is a Recipe
Ask what a tagine is in Morocco and the answer can point to dinner or the clay pot cooking it. Usually, it…
Explore
Pay Attention Before You Decide What a Place Is
A place becomes smaller the moment I arrive certain about it. Certain that I know what the neighborhood will feel like. Certain…