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Five Indonesian Dishes Worth Knowing
Indonesia is too large and too varied to be reduced to five dishes. Thousands of islands, hundreds of ethnic groups, and very…
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Choosing Between the Three Gili Islands
The Gili Islands are often sold as three versions of the same tropical escape. They are close enough to see one another…
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Seeing Orangutans Without Making It About Us
Wildlife travel becomes strange when the animal has to behave a certain way for the visitor to feel the trip was worth…
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One Day in Jerusalem, Without Pretending It Is Simple
Jerusalem is one of those places people describe with superlatives because ordinary language feels inadequate. The problem is that the grand words…
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Tel Aviv After Dark, Minus the Outdated Venue List
The original version of this article promised the ultimate night out in Tel Aviv. It named restaurants, cocktail bars, clubs, a late-night…
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Ten Days in Egypt Is a Route, Not a Checklist
Ten days is enough to understand the scale of Egypt and nowhere near enough to absorb it. The old itinerary tried to…
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Ten Days in Jordan, With Time to Notice It
Jordan looks compact on a map, which makes it easy to design an itinerary that behaves as if every transfer is effortless.…
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Five Italian Dishes, Five Different Regions
Italian food makes more sense when you stop treating it as one cuisine. The cooking changes with the landscape: butter and rice…
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Karachi Is a City, Not a String of Superlatives
The old version of this article called Karachi vivacious, eclectic, mesmerizing, breathtaking, and unforgettable before it said anything useful. That kind of…
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Budgeting for India Without Inventing a Daily Number
Any article that gives one daily budget for India is already hiding the most important information. India is a country of continental…