Africa
From Morocco to Senegal Without Getting on a Plane
I crossed from Morocco into Mauritania and eventually into Senegal without taking a flight. The whole trip took about six weeks. On…
Topic
Itineraries
Asia
Koh Rong Without the Paradise Language
Travel writing has done terrible things to the word paradise. Koh Rong does not need the help. The Cambodian island has long…
Bucket List Ideas
One Day in Jerusalem, Without Pretending It Is Simple
Jerusalem is one of those places people describe with superlatives because ordinary language feels inadequate. The problem is that the grand words…
Explore
Tel Aviv After Dark, Minus the Outdated Venue List
The original version of this article promised the ultimate night out in Tel Aviv. It named restaurants, cocktail bars, clubs, a late-night…
Africa
Ten Days in Egypt Is a Route, Not a Checklist
Ten days is enough to understand the scale of Egypt and nowhere near enough to absorb it. The old itinerary tried to…
Explore
Ten Days in Jordan, With Time to Notice It
Jordan looks compact on a map, which makes it easy to design an itinerary that behaves as if every transfer is effortless.…
Asia
Karachi Is a City, Not a String of Superlatives
The old version of this article called Karachi vivacious, eclectic, mesmerizing, breathtaking, and unforgettable before it said anything useful. That kind of…
Asia
Varanasi Does Not Need to Be Explained Away
Varanasi is often described with the kind of language travel writing reaches for when the writer has run out of nerve: mystical,…
Asia
Rajasthan in Pink and Blue
Jaipur and Jodhpur are regularly reduced to colors. Jaipur is pink. Jodhpur is blue. The labels are useful on a map and…
Asia
Si Phan Don: The Mekong at Walking Speed
The name “Four Thousand Islands” suggests a place that requires a spreadsheet. It does not. Si Phan Don is a broad stretch…