Explore
The Peruvian Amazon Is Not One Destination
Saying you are going to the Peruvian Amazon is a little like saying you are going to the mountains. It identifies an…
Topic
Travel
Become
The Road Into Machu Picchu
Most people arrive at Machu Picchu after a train and a bus. The Inca Trail changes the first impression by making the…
Explore
Peruvian Food Refuses to Be One Cuisine
Peruvian food is usually introduced as a fusion. The word is useful until it starts making centuries of migration, trade, colonization, adaptation,…
Budgeting
Budgeting for Peru Means Budgeting for the Andes
Peru can be affordable, but the old price list promising five-dollar beds and fixed-cost trips to Machu Picchu was never going to…
Become
Bolivia’s Best Treks Begin With an Altitude Reality Check
Bolivia makes mountain travel look close. La Paz sits beneath the Cordillera Real, high passes appear beyond the city, and roads fall…
Bolivia
Bolivian Food Is Built for Altitude
Bolivian food rarely arrives trying to impress you. It arrives hot, substantial, and prepared for a country where mornings are cold, cities…
Bolivia
Two Weeks in Bolivia Means Choosing a Direction
The old two-week itinerary crossed La Paz, Lake Titicaca, Sucre, Potosí, Uyuni, Tupiza, Tarija, and Santa Cruz. It was less a vacation…
Bolivia
Isla del Sol Is Not a Spiritual Prop
Isla del Sol rises from Lake Titicaca high enough that the light seems to have fewer places to hide. Terraced hills fall…
Bolivia
Salar de Uyuni Needs Preparation, Not Mysticism
Salar de Uyuni is difficult to describe without sounding as if you have swallowed a tourism brochure. In the dry season, salt…
Bolivia
Bolivia Is Affordable Until the Route Gets Remote
Bolivia is often described as one of South America’s cheapest countries, which is true in the broad, unhelpful way that hides every…