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Koh Rong Without the Paradise Language
Travel writing has done terrible things to the word paradise. Koh Rong does not need the help. The Cambodian island has long…
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Eating Here Means Eating Across Histories
A food guide to Israel can become dishonest surprisingly quickly. It starts with a confident list of “national dishes,” adds a few…
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Five Dishes, None With a Single Origin Story
The old version of this post called these “must-try Israeli dishes.” That phrasing was tidy, clickable, and far too simple. The foods…
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Five Indonesian Dishes Worth Knowing
Indonesia is too large and too varied to be reduced to five dishes. Thousands of islands, hundreds of ethnic groups, and very…
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Choosing Between the Three Gili Islands
The Gili Islands are often sold as three versions of the same tropical escape. They are close enough to see one another…
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Seeing Orangutans Without Making It About Us
Wildlife travel becomes strange when the animal has to behave a certain way for the visitor to feel the trip was worth…
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One Day in Jerusalem, Without Pretending It Is Simple
Jerusalem is one of those places people describe with superlatives because ordinary language feels inadequate. The problem is that the grand words…
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Tel Aviv After Dark, Minus the Outdated Venue List
The original version of this article promised the ultimate night out in Tel Aviv. It named restaurants, cocktail bars, clubs, a late-night…
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Ten Days in Egypt Is a Route, Not a Checklist
Ten days is enough to understand the scale of Egypt and nowhere near enough to absorb it. The old itinerary tried to…
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Ten Days in Jordan, With Time to Notice It
Jordan looks compact on a map, which makes it easy to design an itinerary that behaves as if every transfer is effortless.…